February Visit to Yellowstone Days 5 & 6

We began Thursday alongside the road in the Lamar Valley, stopping to scope and photograph three coyote and two bald eagles. The eagles were sitting in the treetops about 100 yards from the road. They were facing away from us, most likely watching for mice in the snowy field in front of them, but every now and then they turned their heads toward us and we were able to get some shots. It was amazing to be able to see their eyes! John chatted with Jort, who showed him a video of 1118F feeding at the Hellroaring carcass at 6:30 that morning.

Three coyote trot away in the Lamar Valley. Jort thought that they migt have had a small carcass out there, like a bird, indicated by the ravens also present.

Bald eagle #1

Bald eagle #2

We stopped shortly after at a pullout where we saw Pepe, whose name turned out to be Jose! We wanted to catch him somewhere because the recording we made of him spelling out his email for us didn't work (so we could send him a link to the video of the wolves attacking the bison). 

We then went to Slough Creek to check in on the Junction Butte Pack. They were sleeping in the sun at least a mile away on the hillside. We could spot six of them and suspected the rest were below and behind them. The snow flattens out your perspective of the landscape, so even though there didn't appear to be a downslope behind them, there must have been. We waited for them to get up and move, this being day three and likely the last at the carcass, hoping they would rally together with a howl so we could record it. Just as we packed up, a couple of them howled in response to a distant cry of either coyote or wolf (too far away for us to tell). We quickly set up our microphone and managed to catch one brief howl and then they stopped. It wasn't the chorus of 11 we'd hoped for.

A hungry fox came right up to the car parked behind us. It was Kirsty's car and she was having a bagel and some soup. Her husband chased it away, much to others' dismay. It was good she did that, as we don't want the fox to be habituated.

Ellen sets up to shoot on Bob's Knob at Slough Creek.

Because they are a mile away, it's hard to see five of the Junction Butte Pack members napping. There are four blacks and one gray. One of the blacks was laying behind another, so it's even hard to see.

We finished out the day at the Hellroaring carcass where we finally saw Rick and Nancy Edwards, whom we had met when we were in Yellowstone last December. We also met their friend, Amy. We chatted about heated vests, rechargeable hand warmers, heated boots, poachers, 1118F, and how to obtain closer shots of the wolves. It was a very enjoyable conversation with varied topics. Rick and Nancy are professional photographers and have a business out of Livingston, MT. Rick explained that he gets very few of his shots from the side of the road. When he sees people gathered at a pullout, he looks for how their scopes are pointed; if they are up, that means the animal is too far away to be photographed and he moves on. If they are pointed down, then he stops. Most of his photographs come from hiking out into the terrain, which results in an encounter 20 to 25% of the time. We also asked them whether April was a good time to visit, as we were considering returning in six weeks for Ellen's spring break. They said May was better because you can see the pups, but if April is when we can come, then we should come! Nancy wished us well, and they shared their website and Facebook site with us.

Incidentally, 1118F was there at Hellroaring laying at quite a distance. Rick McIntyre and his assistant (?), Jeremy, were also there checking in on her. They moved on, which we later discovered, to a pullout across from Junction Pass. We stopped because we were planning to go to Slough Creek to check in on the Junctions again, but thought they might be on the move. Sure enough, they had the Junctions at a great distance up near the pass in their scopes, and the pack was making its way westward. Ellen listened quietly to Rick and Jeremy for a while, and John photographed some aspen trees in the low light of early evening.

Evening light on Aspen with Junction Pass in the background

Ellen listens as Rick McIntyre and Jeremy spot the Junction Butte Pack in their scopes as they move west near Junction Pass.

We stopped to take a few shots of the Lamar Valley at sunset on the drive back to Cooke City. The light had left the valley and the mountains in the distance were lit up pink. We were home again after 8:00 for a late dinner.

Ellen is bundled up in the Lamar Valley around 6:00 pm.

Looking north in the Lamar Valley

Sunset in the Lamar Valley

Our fifth and final day of wolf watching began with an early rise of 4:30. We quickly packed up the car, showered, and ate, but didn't manage to get out the door until 5:50, 20 minutes later than we planned. Our destination was the Hellroaring carcass, hoping to catch 1118F having her morning meal. The morning's low was a shocking -22 degrees F.

It was an eerily beautiful drive through the Lamar Valley as the light began to grow in the east. The sky was a bright aqua, which was reflected on the snow. Crests of hills and snow on the rocks were lit up aqua, almost as if from a light beneath the snow. It was really unique, and we've never seen anything quite like it.

The scene at Hellroaring Friday morning around 6:50 am.

It's worth noting that the fur collar on Ellen's scarf is dark brown, not white. Her hat, scarf, and balaclava are covered in frost. The temperature was -22 degrees Farenheit.

John's breath froze on the scope!

We arrived at Hellroaring about 20 minutes after 1118F was done feeding, but we did manage to capture a fairly close shot of her as she walked away. Ellen talked briefly to Jeremy, who let her look at 1118F through his scope; she was laying flat out on the ground and very hard to see. She got up and then disappeared into a swale so we considered heading home (to Duvall). Ellen decided to walk up the hill on the road a bit to see if she could find her. About a quarter mile away from the road, she spotted an animal standing on a hill, and as the creature turned a circle to lie down in the snow, she saw that it was indeed 1118F indicated by her injured right front leg. She set up her camera and John joined her with the scope. With the scope, we were able to confirm that it was her because we could see her tracking collar. She was in the shade, but we knew the sun would soon reach her.

1118F finshes a meal at the carcass at Hellroaring.

1118F walks away from the carcasss after feeding.

We watched as she sunned herself for three hours. She rolled onto her back and stuck her feet in the air, and laid that way for some time. Occasionally, she put her head up and looked to the left, and then toward us. The light lit up her golden eyes and Ellen took many, many photos. She was too far away, but she was so beautiful, it was hard not to.

1118F looks content as she warms herself in the morning sun. It was -22 degrees Farenheit that morning before dawn.

Jort, Rick M. and Jeremy headed east on the road with binoculars, looking for the Junction Buttes. When they returned, Ellen asked Jort if they had found them, considering going to them if so. They had not. Rick took a quick look through our scope to confirm that it was 1118F, and in his matter-of-fact way, turned in seconds, saying, "Yep, it's her," and walked away. They all left, and Ellen made sure to say goodbye to Jort and thank him for his help once again. He took a moment to walk up the road to John to say goodbye to him as well, which was nice.

A nice unknown person, Amy, Jort and Jeremy spot 1118F in their scopes. They watched her feed on the carcass at about 6:30 am.

John approached and questioned a man who turned out to be Bob Landis, whose work we both admire. He was videoing the activity of coyote and ravens on the carcass. Any footage you have seen of the Yellowstone wolves on National Geographic was likely his. John drew him out in conversation, and was really inspired by meeting such an accomplished wildlife cinematographer. Ellen made sure to meet him as well on the return to the car. Back in the car, we started it up and checked the temperature; it was nearly 10:00 AM, and it was still -3 degrees F. It was our coldest but best day of the trip.

Bob Landis, a well-known cinematographer, takes footage of the coyote feeding at the bison carcass. John was really inspired to meet him.

In our three hours watching her, which we both agreed was our favorite part of the trip, we shared the experience with many others. As other tourists came through, we offered them as many looks through the scope as they would like and told them 1118F's story. Many people were seeing a wolf for the first time, and some were moved to tears. Ellen helped a retired couple from Sandy, UT, find her in their scope, and she talked to another couple about where they might see the Junction Buttes. It was really rewarding to finally be knowledgeable enough to help others just as we were once helped by Jort, Rick and Nancy, and Jeremy. We left 1118F to her own world, in total relaxation likely for the rest of the day.

We spent the next several hours talking about the success of our trip as we drove to Livingston, then Bozeman, Missoula, and finally Coeur D'Alene for the night. Ellen made plans for researching binoculars for quick sighting, and John vowed to make the scope work for photography--all for our next trip to Yellowstone this April!

February Visit to Yellowstone Day 4

Since it snowed Tuesday afternoon and last night, we left around 9:00 am for the park on Wednesday to give the plows time to clear the roads. Visibility was poor, so we opted not to stop at Slough Creek and instead went to Tower Junction to cross country ski to Tower Fall. On the way there, we saw a fox inside a bison carcass in the Lamar Valley. Every now and then, it would poke its head out to chase away the magpies.

The fox looks up the hill to the right. There must have been something above it, because it did this frequently while I was there.

The magpies wanted a tidbit from the carcass, too. It was my luck, because just as I got there, others left because the fox was pretty much inside the ribcage of the carcass and only its back was visible. The magpies arrived, and they drew the fox out for photographs.

The fox glares at the magpies.

The ski to Tower Fall was good exercise and rather scenic. We climbed for just over a mile and a half, and then descended another mile to the fall. After a short break, we headed back, not wanting to get chilled in the 8 degree F weather. On the ski, we saw a coyote in the road ahead of us, and also two elk cows on a hill near the waterfall viewpoint.

Ellen removes a layer before heading back up the hill on the return ski.

The waterfall at Tower was frozen. Amazing!

John takes a quick break from skiing at Tower Fall.

We then drove to the Hellroaring Overlook and drank our hot chocolate. Then, John used the scope to spot two coyote and Ellen found an elk cow. While there, a young couple from Germany stopped to view through the scope with us and we gave them some ideas about where they should go next. We recommended the bison carcass at Lower Hellroaring, as well as the ski and snowshoe trips we'd done, and finally Slough Creek. A young family also stopped to look.

John uses the spotting scope and finds a coyote to the northeast about two miles away.

John looks out over Hellroaring with the north-northwest view behind him.

We encountered the couple and family again at Slough Creek next, where we also talked to the renowned Rick McIntyre. Rick worked as an instrumental wolf researcher for the park since their first release in 1995 and only just retired. He was there recording research notes as he watched the Junction Butte Pack interact. He knew them all by number and was recording their actions in great detail. He was helpful, and made sure I and Pepe, the photographer next to me, had the wolves in our view. Shortly, a tour bus arrived as well as the couple and the family. John was gracious and allowed anyone who wanted to look through the scope. Everyone really enjoyed the late afternoon there.

Three black wolves hang out around the carcass of the bison they killed yesterday at Slough Creek. I believe the rightmost wolf is the alpha male.The wolves are about a mile away.

The female gray (who I think is the alpha female) shows dominance by standing over one of the black pups.

Two gray females and a black male head toward the carcass to feed again.

February is mating season, the female's readiness indicated by her averted tail.

Two black pups play at dusk while another black adult rests in the foreground.

Our goal was to record the wolves howling with the microphone we bought for the trip. We stayed out after sunset, about 6:45, before giving up on that hope. Another man stayed almost as long, and Pepe left just before we did. Maybe tomorrow.

In talking to Pepe and the other man, we learned that 1118F was spotted at the carcass at Hellroaring today. We were happy to hear that!

The day ended with a hike in the dark back to the parking lot, and then a 45-minute drive back to Cooke City where black bean and winter squash chili awaited us in the crockpot.

February Visit to Yellowstone Days 1, 2 & 3

With much colder temperatures (low of -15F and high of 18F) and lots more snow, Yellowstone was breathtaking. On Sunday, as we drove into the park toward our accommodations in Cooke City, we saw several park vehicles and a plastic stretcher of sorts at the Lower Hellroaring Pullout. Besides that, we didn't see any activity other than a pair of coyote in the road in the Lamar Valley, so we spent the afternoon settling in.

An anxious coyote makes its way along the highway in the Lamar Valley.

We got up early Monday to arrive at the park just after sunrise. We saw some moose along Soda Butte Creek, just like last time. We hiked at Slough Creek but as we headed up the valley, we began sinking into the snow past the knee, so we turned around. We had hoped to see the Junction Butte pack there who had a carcass further up the valley. We moved on.

Much to our suprise and happiness, we saw 1118F beside the road just before Tower Junction. She crossed the road right in front of our car! John stopped so I could get out, grab the new Sigma 150-600mm lens, my camera, and tripod. In the rush, I left my gloves in the car. Big mistake for 15 degrees below zero! Anyway, I photographed her handheld at first, as she was moving away and I wanted to take advantage of her close proximity. Her right front leg is still injured and she hopped along for three steps, then rested, and so on. Three coyotes were harrassing her.

1118F crosses the road at Tower Junction. She was a member of the Molly pack who set out on her own to start her own pack. She found a mate, but unfortunately, in October he was shot and killed in Wyoming, and everyone's best guess is that she was also shot. We saw her in December, limping through the Lamar Valley. We were so happy to see she was still alive and looking healthy (but still severely gimpy)!

One of the three coyote who were harrassing 1118F, this one barking at her.

After seeing 1118F, we drove to Yellowstone Picnic Area and snowshoed up toward the Specimen Ridge Trail. We had great views of the Yellowstone River with steam rising from hot springs along the bank. We had great views but didn't see any wildlife. It was a difficult snowshoe with deep snow and a starting elevation of around 6,500 feet.

Ellen snowshoes up the Yellowstone River toward Speciment Ridge.

Ellen looks down to the hot springs emptying into the Yellowstone River, which send up plumes of steam.

After that, we drove all the way to the Lower Hellroaring Pullout where there was a dead bison. It had been sick and had died of natural causes in the night. We figured that the ranger activity we saw there on our way in was probably the park service moving the bison away from the road. Several coyote were taking their turns at the carcass, while ravens and a bald eagle snatched tidbits as well. One coyote walked a bison path away from the carcass, rubbing its snout in the snow to clean its face. It followed the path all the way to the road and crossed a few feet in front of me. I had to quickly zoom out from 600mm to 150mm and focus on the fly.

Snow on the nose from cleaning its snout, the coyote makes it was along a bison path after feeding on the bison carcass.

The coyote crossed the road just a few feet in front of me.

It was a satifsying first day with the highlight of seeing 1118F and knowing she was still alive. On her own, injured, and winter...what an animal with spirit.

Today, (Tuesday), we left a little earlier and were in the park just as the sun was coming up. We saw a fox on a steep staircase in Silver City--our first fox. We also saw the otter in the Lamar River. There was a small crowd forming at Slough Creek, but it looked mostly like tours, so we didn't stop. We drove to Elk Creek and, seeing nothing, decided to go back to Slough Creek to see what was happening. Good choice! The Junction Butte Pack of 11 wolves had a bison surrounded. They were quite a distance away, about a mile, too much for my lens set up even with the converter, but I still got some shots that tell the story. John got some great video using the Lumix and the Zeiss scope.

The pack begins to harrass the bison. On the hill above left, three black wolves watch.

Same photo, cropped to the action.

The wolves keep at the bison, eventually bringing her down.

Click below for

JOHN'S VIDEO OF THE ATTACK

We arrived there at about 9:30 and stayed for five hours to watch as the pack took down a bison. They wore it down over the hours. There was a crowd of about 30 people with us, mostly from tours. The wolves finally went for the bison and pulled her down. She got up again, they pulled her down again, and she got up once more. The battled drifted behind a small hill, so we could no longer see. We then decided to try a different vantage point where there were only three people. We still couldn't see the bison, but we could see the wolves as they headed up the hill one by one with visibly bulging bellies.

Ellen makes her way from one hill to another to view the wolves at Slough Creek.

The view up the Slough Creek Valley was beautiful, and the weather changed from snow to sun and back again.Note all the wolf watchers on the hill in the midground.

Just to give you an idea of how far away the wolves were, the take down of the bison occured inside the small red circle. The wolves were not visible with the naked eye.

The 11 members of the Junction Butte Pack make their way up the hill to relax with full bellies.

Though they were a mile away, I was excited to get a classic photo of the pack walking in a line.

We decided to stay to watch the wolveswhen everyone else had left. After about an hour, they disappeared into a forest. John spotted two bull elk with his scope, but he couldn't find the wolves. After waiting another hour, we finally left and headed for Hellroaring and the carcass.

At the Hellroaring carcass, three coyote were feasting and I quickly snapped a picture. There wasn't much left of the bison. We are hoping that 1118F fed on it last night, too.

Not much is left of the bison carcass we saw for the first time Monday.

Heading back toward Cooke City, we stopped at Slough Creek one last time to retrieve John's handwarmer (a rechargeable one) and check on the wolves. There, we saw Hjort, whom we met in December, as well as the wolves, most bedded down on the hillside. One black wolf headed down toward the carcass to chase off two foxes, many ravens, and a bald eagle.

Between seeing the wolves take down a bison and watching them howl and interact playfully, it was a full and wonderful day!